David Breashears' Everest is a dazzling, astonishing, majestic piece of
work, perfectly suited for its gigantic IMAX format. It is gorgeous,
breathtaking, terrifying and ultimately frustrating. The film shows us the
daunting challenges of climbing the world's highest mountain but fails
adequately to explore why someone would want to take the frightful risk to do
so. The picture had such a galvanizing effect on me that I marched straight out
of the theater to the Bookstar on North Peters Street to buy Jon Krakauer's
best seller Into Thin Air, which relates events in which the IMAX
filmmakers were central players. In the pages of Krakauer's book, I learned
that this movie was made by a brave, generous man of vast talents and
surpassing humility who is, at some level, obviously out of his mind.
Everest was made during that infamous spring of 1996 when 12
climbers lost their lives, nine on the very trail that Breashears and his IMAX
team took to the top. In the strictest mountaineering terms, Mount Everest,
which straddles the border between Nepal and Tibet, is not all that difficult a
peak to climb. There are few sheer cliffs that have to be scaled. Skilled work
with piton and rope is not required. Still, the mountain is incredibly deadly.
Since regular attempts to climb it began in the 1920s, one person has died for
every four who have achieved the summit. The reasons for this danger have
mostly to do with high altitude. At 29,028 feet, Everest pokes into the jet
stream at the cruising altitude of commercial airliners. As the film reveals,
the difference in barometric pressure and oxygen content between sea level and
mountain top is so great that if a human being were taken directly from
ocean-side and deposited at the peak, he or she would immediately fall
unconscious and die within minutes.
To put the matter in plainest terms, humans can't live long at
25,000 feet. In what climbers term "the death zone," there is simply not enough
oxygen to sustain the needs of the brain. This can cause both cerebral and
pulmonary edema, by which fluid leaks into the brain or lungs, either of which
can be quickly fatal. Even those who manage to avoid these life-threatening
conditions are likely to be affected by acute mountain sickness that causes
headaches, nausea, sleep disturbance and a dry persistent cough powerful enough
to crack ribs. And if all that isn't bad enough, Everest is beset by an extreme
weather turbulence that produces hurricane-force winds, temperatures as low as
100 degrees below zero and torrential snow falls that obliterate trail markers
and reduce visibility to less than the length of your arm.
Climbers address these dangers by making the ascent on Everest very
slowly, spending a month and even longer at a 17,000-foot base camp and making
a series of climbs to and descents from altitudes up to 22,000 feet in order to
allow their bodies to acclimatize. They dress warmly, of course, increase their
consumption of water to fight off the dehydration that accelerates as they
climb higher and use bottled oxygen on the day they actually go to the summit.
In addition, most climbers are assisted by the hardy local mountain people, the
Sherpas, who do much of the load bearing on climbs and go out on point to mark
the trails with rope so those who follow can hook onto safety lines. And still,
many who dare climb Everest die.

The IMAX film Everest presents as many questions as it answers.
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Everest follows the exploits of three climbers who survived
the perils of May 1996. Ed Viesturs is one of America's premier high-altitude
mountaineers who had climbed Everest three times previously. Araceli Segarra is
a world-class rock climber from Spain who had failed to summit on two earlier
Everest expeditions and sought to become the first of her countrywomen to reach
the mountain's top. Jamling Tenzing Norgay Sherpa is a native of Nepal. His
father was the famed Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, who accompanied Sir Edmund Hillary
to the top of Everest in 1953 as the first two men ever to attain the peak.
What we're never told (leading us throughout the movie to wonder who in the
world is holding that camera) is that director Breashears climbs alongside and
in front of his film's stars. And his is the most amazing feat, of course,
because he climbs the mountain carrying a 35-pound IMAX camera along with an
untold number of film reels weighing five pounds apiece but holding only 90
seconds of footage each.
The IMAX climbers were scheduled to go for the top two days before
the doomed expeditions of Rob Hall's Adventure Consultants and Scott Fischer's
Mountain Madness teams. But bad weather prohibited the original IMAX summit
assault, and the film's central figures huddle at base camp as disaster strikes
on the slopes above them. They are among those who talk with Hall by cell phone
as he lies freezing to death just below the summit, and Viesturs and Breashears
are among those who rush to the rescue of Hall's client, Beck Weathers, who
survives but loses both hands and his nose to frostbite. But the film dwells
little on these tragedies and even less on the heroism exhibited by members of
the IMAX team.
Still, we find ourselves staggered by the seeming foolhardiness of
the IMAX climbers when they decide to make a summit assault of their own a few
days later. The photographs Breashears shoots along the way, the vistas he
captures from the top of the world, are forbiddingly beautiful. And the
hardships of the Everest climb that his camera documents are enduringly
frightening. On the seemingly endless snowy expanse of the Lhotse Face, one
misstep can send a climber skidding and tumbling 4,000 feet to his death.
Throughout the lurching glacial Khumbu Icefall, yawning crevasses hundreds of
feet deep must be crossed on rickety aluminum ladders, sometimes held together
only by twined climbing rope. And above a 40-foot-high sheer wall of rock known
as the Hillary Step, the summit can be reached only along the spine of a narrow
ledge with 7,000 feet of empty sky to either side.
Who are the people who would want to take such risks purely for the
bragging rights to say they survived them? The Sherpas are hired hands, of
course, but it is still shameful that Breashears fails to identify and
acknowledge the brave and essential efforts of the five Sherpas who accompany
the IMAX crew to the top. The motivations of the film's stars are largely
elusive, though Segarra's desire to become the first Spanish woman to summit is
at least somewhat understandable, as is Norgay's desire to live up to the
reputation of his famous father. Viesturs we come to know the least well of the
three. He is newly married, and his wife, Paula, accompanies the IMAX team to
Nepal to serve as Base Camp manager. Given his new familial commitments, and
particularly given that Viesturs has climbed Everest previously, it's unclear
why he wants to risk his life to do so again. It's particularly unclear why he
wants to make the ultimate macho statement and climb the mountain without
supplemental oxygen. To diminish the likelihood of life-threatening hypoxia,
this requires him to speed up and down the mountain so fast that Breashears
isn't even able to capture many of his exploits. What the film neglects to tell
us, but Krakauer reveals, is that Paula Viesturs was so upset with Ed's
decision to climb in the aftermath of so many deaths that she walked down the
mountain to the village of Tengboche and stayed to collect herself for five
days.
It is probably appropriate that Everest leaves as much
mystery as it does. That's part of the film's thrill, just as the thrill of the
climb itself surrenders to no logic. Looking back, though, energized as I was
by this unique movie, I can't imagine encountering it without reading
Krakauer's book immediately afterwards. The two go together like a shot and a
beer.